New pizzeria in town raises the bar

Pizza joints are everywhere in McHenry County, on the outer northwest edge of the Chicago metro area. Chicago, of course, has a worldwide reputation for deep-dish pizza, but none will be found at the new Marzano's Wood Fire Italian in McHenry.

Located in the former Dunhill's Steakhouse, Marzano's features a full Italian menu, highlighted by certified Neapolian pizzas made in a hand-built Italian oven that heats to 1,000 degrees, explained general manager Petar Milovanovic. Thin-crust pizzas with or without tomato sauce are baked for only 90 seconds directly on the oven floor.

Three of us recently shared the Bianca Nero as a starter, topped with pecorino, fresh mozzarella, porcini mushrooms and white truffle oil. It was a good predecessor to our hearty entrees. We most enjoyed the seared jumbo sea scallops on wild mushroom risotto with more white truffle oil (there can never be too much). We also like the braised beef short ribs, slowly braised over parmesan chive mashed potatoes, topped with demi-glace.

Banana tiramisu proved to be a delicious light dessert. But the Neapolitan Nutella dessert pizza, featuring the chocolatey spread sandwiched into a pizza crust sliced into top and bottom layers, was an even more delightful surprise.

Marzano's well-chosen mostly Italian wine list also is a departure from the norm in these parts. A 2009 Antinori Santa Christina Sangiovese paired nicely with our savory courses.

Nacional 27 aging like a fine tequila

Nacional 27, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises' modern Latin restaurant in Chicago's River North neighborhood, is aging like a fine anejo tequila. The ever-evolving menu that represents influences from 27 Latin countries continues to get more and more interesting. And where else in Chicago can you get free salsa lessons or show off the dance moves you've learned on the weekends?

The supper club atmosphere begs for cocktails to start the evening, and Nacional 27 does not disappoint, delivering many unique house-created libations. Rum lovers are in their element here, but those who like less-sweet drinks will enjoy the El Jardin, a drier combination of jalapeno and red pepper-infused Death's Door gin, cilantro and agave. Surprisingly, the drink is not spicy.

Recommended appetizers must include a ceviche sampling of four variations on this Latin classic and empanadas with housemade chorizo, queso freso and pickled jalapeno crema, followed by an oyster shooter in a spicy bloody maria mix, with or without vodka. My favorite entree was the chimichurri-crusted filet with three potato-chorizo hash and Malbec reduction.

Be sure to save room for a little dessert, especially flan accompanied by an intense tiny chocolate "milkshake" shooter. If you haven't visited Nacional 27 in awhile, it's time to go back.