New pizzeria in town raises the bar

Pizza joints are everywhere in McHenry County, on the outer northwest edge of the Chicago metro area. Chicago, of course, has a worldwide reputation for deep-dish pizza, but none will be found at the new Marzano's Wood Fire Italian in McHenry.

Located in the former Dunhill's Steakhouse, Marzano's features a full Italian menu, highlighted by certified Neapolian pizzas made in a hand-built Italian oven that heats to 1,000 degrees, explained general manager Petar Milovanovic. Thin-crust pizzas with or without tomato sauce are baked for only 90 seconds directly on the oven floor.

Three of us recently shared the Bianca Nero as a starter, topped with pecorino, fresh mozzarella, porcini mushrooms and white truffle oil. It was a good predecessor to our hearty entrees. We most enjoyed the seared jumbo sea scallops on wild mushroom risotto with more white truffle oil (there can never be too much). We also like the braised beef short ribs, slowly braised over parmesan chive mashed potatoes, topped with demi-glace.

Banana tiramisu proved to be a delicious light dessert. But the Neapolitan Nutella dessert pizza, featuring the chocolatey spread sandwiched into a pizza crust sliced into top and bottom layers, was an even more delightful surprise.

Marzano's well-chosen mostly Italian wine list also is a departure from the norm in these parts. A 2009 Antinori Santa Christina Sangiovese paired nicely with our savory courses.

Nacional 27 aging like a fine tequila

Nacional 27, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises' modern Latin restaurant in Chicago's River North neighborhood, is aging like a fine anejo tequila. The ever-evolving menu that represents influences from 27 Latin countries continues to get more and more interesting. And where else in Chicago can you get free salsa lessons or show off the dance moves you've learned on the weekends?

The supper club atmosphere begs for cocktails to start the evening, and Nacional 27 does not disappoint, delivering many unique house-created libations. Rum lovers are in their element here, but those who like less-sweet drinks will enjoy the El Jardin, a drier combination of jalapeno and red pepper-infused Death's Door gin, cilantro and agave. Surprisingly, the drink is not spicy.

Recommended appetizers must include a ceviche sampling of four variations on this Latin classic and empanadas with housemade chorizo, queso freso and pickled jalapeno crema, followed by an oyster shooter in a spicy bloody maria mix, with or without vodka. My favorite entree was the chimichurri-crusted filet with three potato-chorizo hash and Malbec reduction.

Be sure to save room for a little dessert, especially flan accompanied by an intense tiny chocolate "milkshake" shooter. If you haven't visited Nacional 27 in awhile, it's time to go back.

Personalizing a Bakers Square pie beats baking

When I'm not indulging in eating great food in restaurants, I like to cook at home. Baking, however, is not my forte, so the desserts on my table usually are baked by professionals.

With the holidays upon us, desserts are getting a higher profile than ever. I recently was treated to a tasting of some of the newer pie flavors at a Chicago location of Bakers Square, which reinforced my resolve to leave the baking to the pros. I especially liked the apple cranberry galette and a sweet/savory creation with bacon slices on top expected to be introduced next spring. With a working title of the Salty Hog, this gem also contains salted walnuts on a caramel sauce.

Mary Pint, Bakers Square's charming "Pie Lady" spokesperson, was in town for the tasting, at which she shared tips from her 40 years of pie baking experience on how to personalize pies that are not homemade, such as adding your own made-from-scratch whipped cream or other toppings. That works for me.

Restaurants in Mazatlan demonstrate authenticity

Just back from five days in tropical Mazatlan, on the Pacific Coast of Mexico north of Puerto Vallarta, I have a new appreciation for authentic, regional Mexican cuisine, often hard to find in "Mexican" eateries in my neck of the woods.

Handmade corn tortillas, fish served the same day it's caught and a better variety of chile sauces made the restaurants I sampled stand out, even the casual ones--and most of them were very casual. It's hard to beat the freshness of the day's shrimp or fin fish catch, simply prepared in a shoreline restaurant, such as La Puntilla or Diego's on the Beach. The ceviche and the whole fish (zarondeado), currently corvina, the latter grilled on the beach over a wood and mesquite fire, were outstanding.

Flavorful stews made with a variety of meats satisfied my appetite at several restaurants, including Panama in the Golden Zone and El Meson de los Laureanos in the small village of El Quelite north of Mazatlan. Panama, which began as a cake bakery, also has wonderful cakes and pies, especially the guava pie and the dried plum cake.

It's hard or impossible to duplicate some of these dishes in the Chicago area, but I encourage more local Mexican restaurateurs to try a little harder.

New Pump Room affordable for non-celebrities

Chicago's reincarnation of the legendary Pump Room Restaurant in the Ambassador East Hotel that hosted stars of screen and stage for several decades starting in the late 1930s evokes a whole new contemporary image.

New York boutique hotel impresario Ian Schrager has designed a restaurant and hotel (now called Chicago Public) for today, retaining little to remind those old enough to remember what the old Pump Room looked like. Even the museum-worthy collection of black-and-white photos of the stars who dined there has been relegated to the side entrance and the lower level outside of the restrooms.

Likewise, very few menu items hark back to the Pump Room's heyday. Today's seasonal menu, the work of New York uber-chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, is simple enough to appeal to average diners, and even those on a budget. Lunch entrees, for example, range from $11 for a sandwich to $18 for Lake superior whitefish.

Mayor Rahm Emanuel chose the organic fried chicken for lunch the day I was there, washed down with iced tea. No dessert for the trim mayor.

It will be interesting to see if the Pump Room becomes the kind of celebrity haunt it once was. My hunch is that it will find its place as one of many good Chicago restaurants frequented by ordinary folks who like to dine out.

Ethyl's Beer & Wine Dive a clever roadhouse concept

The new Ethyl's Beer & Wine Dive at 324 W. Racine Ave. in Chicago's Far West Loop is more than the "dive bar" that partners Scott Harris, Donnie Kruse and Luigi Negroni are calling it. I'd call it more of a retro roadhouse, with it's Route 66 era theme and kitschy accoutrements.

It turns out that Ethyl is not a woman's name but a gasoline anti-knock additive touted by gas stations of yore. The restaurant, formerly Stanley's, is located near the source of the old Route 66, which ran from Chicago to Santa Monica, Calif. Occasionally people who didn't get the word that the fabled route no longer exists stop in at Ethyl's in hopes of locating it, Kruse said.

Locals in the know are more interested in Ethyl's food and beverages, which include tangy hickory-smoked ribs with sweet chili glaze and watermelon/jicama salad, Chicageaux gumbo with andouille sausage, crawfish, shrimp and catfish and a UIC flame burger with roasted green chiles, jalapeno mayo and pepperjack cheese. A large list of beer in cans, which the partners claim are the best containers for beer, is available, along with an interesting cocktail selection of everything from frozen concoctions served with umbrellas to serious martinis and Manhattans.

The interior provides a blast from the past with formica tables, pinball and shuffleboard games and a photo booth. Ethyl's definitely is a good place to get your kicks.

Sepia opens stunning private dining space

Sepia, the distinctive four-year-old Michelin-starred seasonal American restaurant at 123 N. Jefferson St, Chicago, has opened a private dining room next door to meet guest requests. Partner Emmanuel Nony said he'd previously had to turn away many potential private parties due to lack of space--no longer a problem.

The room has its own kitchen but will make use of the ever-changing menu from the restaurant, which currently lists entrees including braised rabbit and tandoori-marinated sturgeon. House-made charcuterie, a multitude of appetizers and innovative craft cocktails are other signatures.

Lacking the 1890s touches of the main restaurant, this contemporary room with its sunburst light fixtures and modern art provides seating for 70 or cocktail party capacity of 120. Small parties of under 30 guests can continue to book their events in the original restaurant.

Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba! did great job with private party

My daughter's bridesmaids and I recently hosted a bridal shower in one of the private party rooms at Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba!, the Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises' Spanish tapas bar/restaurant on Halsted Street in Chicago. Happily, the staff did a superb job with everything, and the bride-to-be was delighted.

The event for 15 was a tapas brunch, with dishes served family-style. We chose ahi tuna with mesclun greens and shaved vegetables, roasted dates wrapped in bacon with apple viniagrette, ham and cheese crepe, scrambled eggs with bell peppers and onions and, the popular finale, flourless chocolate truffle cake. Additional delicious gluten-free items were served to a gulten-intolerant guest.

I picked this LEYE restaurant because of the company's outstanding attention to service, and this event did not disappoint. Course delivery was properly timed, beverage glasses kept filled and the service generally unobtrusive during such bridal shower highlights as "how well do you know the bride " games and gift opening.

 Two small rooms are available, as well as the outdoor patio for larger groups and a higher room fee. I highly recommend Cafe ba-Ba-Reeba! for fun and festive private parties.

Chicago French Market an underused treasure

Chicago French Market has been a wonderful addition to the Ogilvie train station in its long-neglected northern lower level. It's too bad that it lacks the customers it deserves.

Customers are few and far between whenever I go there, which is whenever I'm in the neighborhood. Some two dozen vendors fill the stalls with everything from live lobsters to intricate French pastries. Canady Le Chocolatier sells handmade chocolates that are works of art nearly too pretty to eat. Frietkoten Belgian Fries & Beer brings back memories of my first trip to Europe many years ago. Saigon Sisters serves the best Vietnamese street food. And these are just a sample of the market's varied offerings.

One problem is that the market's location doesn't have a busy pedestrian traffic pattern like similar markets have in other cities, such as New York and Philadelphia. It's out of the way for anyone except commuters and nearby residents and office workers.

In spite of its location dilemma, the market is definitely worth a special trip. Anyone driving can get free parking for an hour with a $20 purchase. Hours are 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday-Friday and 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday. Check it out if you haven't been there.

Out of Africa: Excellent South African wines

Wines of South Africa, a non-profit company owned by wine producers, recently conducted educational workshops at The Peninsula-Chicago that revealed some of the newer wines from the Cape winelands, many of which are not yet exported to the U.S. Although I already was familiar with a few good South African imports, particularly Sauvignon Blancs, I learned that red wine plantings have grown to make up nearly half of the production.

Two that I particulary liked were the Thandi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, drinkable now due to its less-powerful tannins, and Nederburg's Ingenuity Red 2008, a blend of Italian grapes--Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo. This big wine will be even better in six-to-nine years.

Vernon Henn of Thandi Wines related an uplifting history of the company, the first in South Africa to be Fair Trade certified in 2003. In addition to using sustainable agricultural practices, Thandi employs local laborers previously excluded from the nation's formal economy who have become owners. The winery also sponsors day care centers, schools and other programs.

Thandi's corporate social investments are setting an example for the rest of South Africa's growing wine industry, which currently makes up three percent of the world's vineyards. "We borrowed the land from our children and will try to leave it in a better state," Henn stated. 

Culinary celebrities not the only stars at NRA show

Celebrity chefs gave cooking demos, authographed their cookbooks and shook a lot of hands at this year's National Restaurant Association Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show. Among them were Paul Prudhomme and John Folse of Louisiana, both kings of Cajun cuisine; Marcus Samuelsson and Rick Bayless, Top Chef Master winners, restaurant owners and authors; and many others. I noted that the line of fans who waited in line to get Bayless' signature in their cookbooks was particularly lengthy.

From the golf world, the legendary Greg Norman was at the show to promote his Greg Norman Signature Wagyu beef, which he showcased at an exclusive dinner at Sixteen restaurant in the Trump Tower under the direction of Frank Brunacci, executive chef and fellow Australian. This luscious beef will be available at several additional restaurants around Chicago.

Representing the city of Chicago was none other than newly installed Mayor Rahm Emanuel, who briefly walked a bit of the show floor with a small entourage and shook hands. No doubt the mayor understands the economic importance of keeping this mega-trade show in Chicago for years to come.

NRA Show--so much to see, so little time

This is the 26th year I've attended the National Restaurant Association Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show at Chicago's McCormick Place. As an industry observer, I have the luxury of being selective about what aspects of this huge trade show to take in, since it's impossible to see it all.

On the first day, for example, I chose just one of the 25 education sessions to attend: Cornell Dean's Leadership Series: Insights from Top Innovators. Panelists discussed a wide range of subjects affecting their businesses. Dan Rosenthal, CEO of Chicago's Rosenthal Restaurant Group, made an impassioned case for sensible immigration reform, which has languished in Congress, and against some of the massive INS sweeps that have struck several restaurant companies. "We need to take action to be sure this problem gets resolved. Make the punishment fit the crime. To rip families apart doesn't fit the crime," he said.

Drew Nieporent of New York's Myriad Restaurant Group and Zachary Bruell of Cleveland's Parallax and other restaurants lamented a decline in the service aspect of many higher-end restaurants today. "The service and the experience is what makes the restaurant," Bruell said.

Asked why so many restaurants fail, Elizabeth Brau, a leading restaurant consultant in Las Vegas, said, "More restaurtants fail because of the economics of the lease than anything else."

Aria's new chef raises bar on New World Asian

Beverly Kim Clark, chef de cuisine at The Fairmont Chicago's Aria restaurant, is raising the bar on an already innovative New World Asian menu. Diners will notice more Korean ingredients from her heritage but may not catch more subtle influences that inspire her creations.

Chef Clark, whose past experience includes work at Takashi and Red Light, says the paintings of local artist Matthew Lew, which grace 60 of the hotel's luxury suites, have helped to inspire some of her cooking. Lew, in turn, gains inspiration from natural and man-made elements of his surroundings and actually incorporated water from Lake Michigan into his acrylics for his varying waterfront views of the Chicago skyline.

"When I look at Matt's paintings, they are colorful, bright and bold; there is a really positive energy that comes out--they are playful and sensual or calm and peaceful," says Clark. "I get inspiration from all artists."

On the colorful and bold side, she recently created a bite-sized vertical composition of crispy pork belly with kimchi puree, black garlic mustard and pineapple, radish and chili relish on a kimchi mung bean pancake topped with a quail egg that was as delicious as it was pretty. Another full-flavored stunner was her hoisin-glazed pulled Denver lamb rib with cumin, fava mint puree and shaved Napa cabbage and fennel slaw.

Clark makes her own kimchi in the restaurant, saying most of her customers know what it is and have acquired a taste for it. She credits her mother for being "an amazing cook and the reason why I'm a chef."

Mom would be proud indeed to see what her daughter is achieving.

Benny's Chop House updates steakhouse tradition

Chicago has long been known for its many great steakhouses, so when new ones open, are they the same old, same old? Not so in the case of Benny's Chop House at 444 N. Wabash Ave., a little north of Trump Tower.

Benny's, named for majority owner Benny Siddu, has all the requisite steakhouse/chophouse accoutrements but takes them a step further. Every cut on the menu is prime, including the burger, says Mitchell Schmieding, director of operations. Some steaks are dry-aged and others wet-aged. Some are all natural, raised by smaller farmers instead of factory farms, but not enough supply is produced to allow Benny's to buy only naturally raised beef.

Most steakhouses also are known for top-quality seafood, so it's no surprise that Benny's is, too. However, Benny's gets most of its fish "straight from sea to table," says Jonathan Lane, executive chef, formerly from the Four Seasons-Chicago. For instance, he recently ordered halibut directly from his Alaskan supplier as soon as the catch came in and served it the next day.

Appetizers, salads and side dishes are more complex than the shrimp cocktails, sliced Beefsteak tomatoes and giant baked potatoes that are traditional to most steakhouses. Among the standouts are house-smoked salmon, crab and lobster "Louie" tower, prime steak tartare and a grilled romaine salad. The pastry department makes all breads and desserts from scratch, including ice creams.

Guests may accompany their courses with one of 600 wines, including 35 glass pours. Some specialty cocktails change seasonally, and small batch custom cocktails can be designed for private events.

Excellent service also is an integral part of the experience, as overseen by Schmieding, who honed his front-of-the-house skills during the 18 years he spent at Charlie Trotter's. This steakhouse gets my vote as one of the best in the city.

Cup

Harbor House a hit for Bartolotta Restaurants

Harbor House, the newest of about a dozen restaurants and catering venues for Milwaukee's Bartolotta Restaurants, is as impressive for its food and service as it is for having the most scenic waterfront view around. A partnership with local businessman Michael Cudahy on land leased from the city, Harbor House has quickly become one of the city's leading fine dining destinations since opening in July of 2010 after undergoing a $3 million renovation.

Previous restaurants in the space, Pieces of Eight and the shorter-lived Harbor 550, suffered mixed reviews. Bartolotta Restaurants is disproving the unfortunate fact that restaurants boasting the best views often are lacking in the culinary department, for some reason.

On a recent visit after seeing the exhibits at the Milwaukee Art Museum with its spectacular Calatrava wing next door, I enjoyed ultra-fresh Canadian oysters, full-flavored tuna tartare and the best cioppino east of San Francisco. Superb key lime pie provided just the right finishing touch, and enthusiastic service matched the high food quality. Complimentary valet parking at lunch was an added bonus.

Harbor House is further proof that the Midwest can produce seafood restaurants to rival the best to be found on the coasts.

1776 Restaurant up to date after 20 years

My husband recently treated me to a birthday dinner at one of our favorite local restaurants, 1776, in Crystal Lake, Ill., which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. As regular customers over the years, we can report that owners Andy and wife Terry Andresky have achieved this milestone by being smart operators.

No resting on laurels, they continue to update the menu, which currently includes specialties such as a house-smoked fish sampler, wild game chili and free-range chicken stuffed with pistachio and goat cheese. They survived several chef changes without a hitch, finally promoting their loyal sous chef Santiago to head chef position several years ago. In addition to running the kitchen, Santiago also teaches cooking classes to adults and children.

Andy, a wine expert, oversees the eclectic wine list, writes a wine column for the local newspaper and teaches wine classes. He also holds occasional beer dinners featuring newly discovered microbrews.

Mindful of the economic doldrums that have hurt many fine dining restaurants, the Andreskys keep coming up with easy-on-the budget specials, such as $5 martinis on Tuesdays, three-course early bird dinners before 6 p.m. on week nights and the current Deflation Nation specials available every day.

A stellar example of restaurateurs who know how to cater to their market, I wish them continued success for at least another 20 years.

Starbucks mini desserts hit the sweet spot

The mini-dessert trend that some independent restaurants started several years ago has gone mainstream, being adopted by chain restaurants as diverse as Starbucks and Dairy Queen, and it's a welcome trend indeed.

I always found the pastries at Starbucks to be less interesting than the coffee options--until now. Starbucks Petites, small afternoon desserts under 200 calories, could become addictive. The choices I've tried and recommend are the Salted Caramel Sweet Square and the Lemon Sweet Square. Friends liked the Peanut Butter Mini Cupcake and the Red Velvet Whoopie Pie.

At $1.50 for one or $2.50 for two, the price also is right in these economic times when many of us can afford only small luxuries. Now if I could just order half portions of cappuccino...

It's not easy being green

Restaurants that have gone to the trouble of applying for and getting green certification from the Green Restaurant Association or Green Seal understand what Kermit the Frog meant when he said, "It's not easy being green."

The two dozen-plus certified green restaurants in Chicago are conserving natural resources, reducing waste that would go to landfills and undertaking similar actions that Keefer's Restaurant partner Glenn Keefer notes are "the right thing to do." Among the steps Keefer's has taken are to use green building materials, including recycled glass in flooring and bathroom tiles and wool instead of synthethic rugs;  recycle bottles, aluminum and paper in the back of the house; and install bicycle racks outside and give bicycling employees health club passes in the building to use for showers before their shifts.

Additional efforts to become even more green are ongoing, Keefer says, in spite of challenges. For instance, he plans to buy a more energy-efficient dishwasher even though the cost is much higher than a less-efficient model. He also is frustrated by not always being able to buy from local food producers, due to the region's short growing season.

Nevertheless, Keefer says, "It's definitely worth the effort, and we will continue to do it." He often hears from new customers that they came to the restaurant when they learned it has green certification.

Other certified green restaurants in Chicago so far are Avec, Big Jones, Blackbird, Bleeding Heart Bakery, Blind Faith Cafe, Dining Room at Kendall College, Frontera Grill, Hannah's Bretzel, Poag Mahone's, The Publican, Roti Mediterranean Grill, Simone's Bar, Sopraffina Marketcaffe (5 locations), Topolobampo, Trattoria No. 10 and Uncommon Ground (2 spots).

New Zealand 2010 vintages show amazing variety

New Zealand winemakers recently made a big impression on Chicagoans who sampled their 2010 vintages in an industry tasting at Avenues.

I already was a huge fan of the country's Sauvignon Blancs, so it was no surprise to find delightful new releases from Babich and Goldwater from the Marlborough region and Trinity Hill from Hawke's Bay. Mellow Pinot Noirs, such as the Amisfield 2008, also met my high expectations.

One surprise was the Pegasus Bay Maestro Merlot Malbec Waipara 2006, an excellent example of Merlot-dominant blends being produced on the North Island. Restaurateurs Drew and Susan Goss of West Town Tavern especially favored the Syrahs and Reislings.

Look for New Zealand wines at your favorite restaurants, and if you don't find many, you might suggest to the managers that they seek them out.

Bistronomic is realization of a dream

Martial Noguier, chef/partner of the new Bistronomic on Chicago's Gold Coast, told me he is living his dream of having his own restaurant. The name is a combination of the words "bistro" and "gastronomic," he said, and is intended to convey a concept that is more than the typical French bistro.
     "I want to create a new bistro in Chicago. Most of them are almost the same. The challenge is to do very good food but not to charge too much, as at the other two places I worked," he said. He was referring to Cafe des Architectes at the nearby Hotel Sofitel and to One Sixtyblue on West Randolph Street.
     How can he hold down costs enough to keep his entree prices between the current $17 and $23, I asked? He responded, "I use everything and buy right but still wonderful quality. The plates have less steps than I used to do--more simple for the cooks. I need fewer cooks." He also does his own butchering and pastry and has no sommelier or maitre d'.
     "I have people here who travel to Europe who say it's like in France," Noguier says in his charming Parisian accent. "It's a modern bistro."
     He plans to add Saturday and Sunday brunch soon and a small sidewalk cafe when the weather permits.

Chicagoans gain as James Beard Awards finalists

It used to be that New York-based restaurants and chefs won nearly all of the James Beard Foundation restaurant and chef awards. At long last, more and more Chicagoans are being nominated for national awards--probably the restaurant industry's most coveted.
     Although they face formidable competition in their categories, I think they all stand a good chance of winning. The local nominees are: Paul Kahan, chef/partner of Blackbird and the Publican, "Outstanding Chef"; Richard Melman, founder, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, founder, "Outstanding Restaurateur"; Stephanie Izard, chef, Girl and the Goat, "Best New Restaurant"; and Patrick Fahy, pastry chef, Blackbird, and Mindy Segal, Hot Chocolate, "Outstanding Pasty Chef". Of course, only one pastry chef can win; it's unusual to have two Chicago nominees in that category. Topolobampo is a nominee for "Outstanding Service."
     Four of the five finalists for "Best Chef: Great Lakes" are Chicagoans: Curtis Duffy of Avenues, Bruce Sherman of North Pond, Paul Virant of Vie and Michael Carlson of Schwa.
     Loosely modeled after the Academy Awards, the awards ceremony, which I attended several times over the years, is quite the gala affair. This year's event take place May 9 in New York.