Benny's Chop House updates steakhouse tradition

Chicago has long been known for its many great steakhouses, so when new ones open, are they the same old, same old? Not so in the case of Benny's Chop House at 444 N. Wabash Ave., a little north of Trump Tower.

Benny's, named for majority owner Benny Siddu, has all the requisite steakhouse/chophouse accoutrements but takes them a step further. Every cut on the menu is prime, including the burger, says Mitchell Schmieding, director of operations. Some steaks are dry-aged and others wet-aged. Some are all natural, raised by smaller farmers instead of factory farms, but not enough supply is produced to allow Benny's to buy only naturally raised beef.

Most steakhouses also are known for top-quality seafood, so it's no surprise that Benny's is, too. However, Benny's gets most of its fish "straight from sea to table," says Jonathan Lane, executive chef, formerly from the Four Seasons-Chicago. For instance, he recently ordered halibut directly from his Alaskan supplier as soon as the catch came in and served it the next day.

Appetizers, salads and side dishes are more complex than the shrimp cocktails, sliced Beefsteak tomatoes and giant baked potatoes that are traditional to most steakhouses. Among the standouts are house-smoked salmon, crab and lobster "Louie" tower, prime steak tartare and a grilled romaine salad. The pastry department makes all breads and desserts from scratch, including ice creams.

Guests may accompany their courses with one of 600 wines, including 35 glass pours. Some specialty cocktails change seasonally, and small batch custom cocktails can be designed for private events.

Excellent service also is an integral part of the experience, as overseen by Schmieding, who honed his front-of-the-house skills during the 18 years he spent at Charlie Trotter's. This steakhouse gets my vote as one of the best in the city.

Cup

Harbor House a hit for Bartolotta Restaurants

Harbor House, the newest of about a dozen restaurants and catering venues for Milwaukee's Bartolotta Restaurants, is as impressive for its food and service as it is for having the most scenic waterfront view around. A partnership with local businessman Michael Cudahy on land leased from the city, Harbor House has quickly become one of the city's leading fine dining destinations since opening in July of 2010 after undergoing a $3 million renovation.

Previous restaurants in the space, Pieces of Eight and the shorter-lived Harbor 550, suffered mixed reviews. Bartolotta Restaurants is disproving the unfortunate fact that restaurants boasting the best views often are lacking in the culinary department, for some reason.

On a recent visit after seeing the exhibits at the Milwaukee Art Museum with its spectacular Calatrava wing next door, I enjoyed ultra-fresh Canadian oysters, full-flavored tuna tartare and the best cioppino east of San Francisco. Superb key lime pie provided just the right finishing touch, and enthusiastic service matched the high food quality. Complimentary valet parking at lunch was an added bonus.

Harbor House is further proof that the Midwest can produce seafood restaurants to rival the best to be found on the coasts.

1776 Restaurant up to date after 20 years

My husband recently treated me to a birthday dinner at one of our favorite local restaurants, 1776, in Crystal Lake, Ill., which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. As regular customers over the years, we can report that owners Andy and wife Terry Andresky have achieved this milestone by being smart operators.

No resting on laurels, they continue to update the menu, which currently includes specialties such as a house-smoked fish sampler, wild game chili and free-range chicken stuffed with pistachio and goat cheese. They survived several chef changes without a hitch, finally promoting their loyal sous chef Santiago to head chef position several years ago. In addition to running the kitchen, Santiago also teaches cooking classes to adults and children.

Andy, a wine expert, oversees the eclectic wine list, writes a wine column for the local newspaper and teaches wine classes. He also holds occasional beer dinners featuring newly discovered microbrews.

Mindful of the economic doldrums that have hurt many fine dining restaurants, the Andreskys keep coming up with easy-on-the budget specials, such as $5 martinis on Tuesdays, three-course early bird dinners before 6 p.m. on week nights and the current Deflation Nation specials available every day.

A stellar example of restaurateurs who know how to cater to their market, I wish them continued success for at least another 20 years.

Starbucks mini desserts hit the sweet spot

The mini-dessert trend that some independent restaurants started several years ago has gone mainstream, being adopted by chain restaurants as diverse as Starbucks and Dairy Queen, and it's a welcome trend indeed.

I always found the pastries at Starbucks to be less interesting than the coffee options--until now. Starbucks Petites, small afternoon desserts under 200 calories, could become addictive. The choices I've tried and recommend are the Salted Caramel Sweet Square and the Lemon Sweet Square. Friends liked the Peanut Butter Mini Cupcake and the Red Velvet Whoopie Pie.

At $1.50 for one or $2.50 for two, the price also is right in these economic times when many of us can afford only small luxuries. Now if I could just order half portions of cappuccino...