It's not easy being green

Restaurants that have gone to the trouble of applying for and getting green certification from the Green Restaurant Association or Green Seal understand what Kermit the Frog meant when he said, "It's not easy being green."

The two dozen-plus certified green restaurants in Chicago are conserving natural resources, reducing waste that would go to landfills and undertaking similar actions that Keefer's Restaurant partner Glenn Keefer notes are "the right thing to do." Among the steps Keefer's has taken are to use green building materials, including recycled glass in flooring and bathroom tiles and wool instead of synthethic rugs;  recycle bottles, aluminum and paper in the back of the house; and install bicycle racks outside and give bicycling employees health club passes in the building to use for showers before their shifts.

Additional efforts to become even more green are ongoing, Keefer says, in spite of challenges. For instance, he plans to buy a more energy-efficient dishwasher even though the cost is much higher than a less-efficient model. He also is frustrated by not always being able to buy from local food producers, due to the region's short growing season.

Nevertheless, Keefer says, "It's definitely worth the effort, and we will continue to do it." He often hears from new customers that they came to the restaurant when they learned it has green certification.

Other certified green restaurants in Chicago so far are Avec, Big Jones, Blackbird, Bleeding Heart Bakery, Blind Faith Cafe, Dining Room at Kendall College, Frontera Grill, Hannah's Bretzel, Poag Mahone's, The Publican, Roti Mediterranean Grill, Simone's Bar, Sopraffina Marketcaffe (5 locations), Topolobampo, Trattoria No. 10 and Uncommon Ground (2 spots).

New Zealand 2010 vintages show amazing variety

New Zealand winemakers recently made a big impression on Chicagoans who sampled their 2010 vintages in an industry tasting at Avenues.

I already was a huge fan of the country's Sauvignon Blancs, so it was no surprise to find delightful new releases from Babich and Goldwater from the Marlborough region and Trinity Hill from Hawke's Bay. Mellow Pinot Noirs, such as the Amisfield 2008, also met my high expectations.

One surprise was the Pegasus Bay Maestro Merlot Malbec Waipara 2006, an excellent example of Merlot-dominant blends being produced on the North Island. Restaurateurs Drew and Susan Goss of West Town Tavern especially favored the Syrahs and Reislings.

Look for New Zealand wines at your favorite restaurants, and if you don't find many, you might suggest to the managers that they seek them out.

Bistronomic is realization of a dream

Martial Noguier, chef/partner of the new Bistronomic on Chicago's Gold Coast, told me he is living his dream of having his own restaurant. The name is a combination of the words "bistro" and "gastronomic," he said, and is intended to convey a concept that is more than the typical French bistro.
     "I want to create a new bistro in Chicago. Most of them are almost the same. The challenge is to do very good food but not to charge too much, as at the other two places I worked," he said. He was referring to Cafe des Architectes at the nearby Hotel Sofitel and to One Sixtyblue on West Randolph Street.
     How can he hold down costs enough to keep his entree prices between the current $17 and $23, I asked? He responded, "I use everything and buy right but still wonderful quality. The plates have less steps than I used to do--more simple for the cooks. I need fewer cooks." He also does his own butchering and pastry and has no sommelier or maitre d'.
     "I have people here who travel to Europe who say it's like in France," Noguier says in his charming Parisian accent. "It's a modern bistro."
     He plans to add Saturday and Sunday brunch soon and a small sidewalk cafe when the weather permits.

Chicagoans gain as James Beard Awards finalists

It used to be that New York-based restaurants and chefs won nearly all of the James Beard Foundation restaurant and chef awards. At long last, more and more Chicagoans are being nominated for national awards--probably the restaurant industry's most coveted.
     Although they face formidable competition in their categories, I think they all stand a good chance of winning. The local nominees are: Paul Kahan, chef/partner of Blackbird and the Publican, "Outstanding Chef"; Richard Melman, founder, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, founder, "Outstanding Restaurateur"; Stephanie Izard, chef, Girl and the Goat, "Best New Restaurant"; and Patrick Fahy, pastry chef, Blackbird, and Mindy Segal, Hot Chocolate, "Outstanding Pasty Chef". Of course, only one pastry chef can win; it's unusual to have two Chicago nominees in that category. Topolobampo is a nominee for "Outstanding Service."
     Four of the five finalists for "Best Chef: Great Lakes" are Chicagoans: Curtis Duffy of Avenues, Bruce Sherman of North Pond, Paul Virant of Vie and Michael Carlson of Schwa.
     Loosely modeled after the Academy Awards, the awards ceremony, which I attended several times over the years, is quite the gala affair. This year's event take place May 9 in New York.