Hubbard Inn Summer Tour Starts in Spain

Chicago's Hubbard Inn is taking customers on armchair tours of Spain, Italy and France this summer at its eclectic restaurant at 110 W. Hubbard.

"Since most people can't make it to Europe this summer, we're bringing Europe to them," said Bob Zrenner, executive chef.

Beginning in Spain's northern regions, a sample menu features a tapas portion of scallop crudo--thin slices of marinated scallops, accented with green apple ceviche and marcona almonds; grilled figs and Serrano ham with whipped goat cheese on crusty bread; salt and pimiento-crusted yellowfin tuna with marinated olives and bitter lemon puree and a luscious creme caramel for dessert with a Manchego cheese cracker and apricot compote.

The restaurant was full on a recent Tuesday night, as were neighboring Epic and Slurping Turtle. Sidewalk tables were especially in demand on a rare balmy (not too hot) summer night.

Seasons 52 summer menu guilt-free

Sampling the Seasons 52 Fresh Grill new summer menu was a guilt-free treat at a launch tasting in the Schaumburg, Ill. location two days before real summer began on June 21. Unlike most restaurants, Seasons 52 touts low calorie counts--claiming every dish weighs in under 475 calories--and proves that healthy food also tastes good.

My favorite from the four-course menu was the Chilled Lobster and Shrimp Spring Roll with three sauces--tangy salsa verde, creamy lemongrass and sweet-hot red chili. This appetizer is light and refreshing and leaves room for more food to follow, such as the interesting Summer Vegetarian Tasting of five small dishes, ranging from a cheesy chili relleno to cedar-roasted tofu squares with mango chutney. Even executive chef partner John State admitted skepticism about tofu until coming up with this preparation, which even carnivores may like.

A stellar main course was Wild Alaskan Copper River Salmon from the sockeye family, grilled and accompanied by corn risotto, asparagus, roasted pepper and dill sauce. This sustainable species is available only for a few weeks, so there's no time to waste if you want a taste this season. Following the salmon came a Piedmontese All-Natural Bone-in Strip Steak from a new leaner cattle breed that's completely grass-fed. A cremini mushroom and red wine sauce came with the medium-rare, 11-ounce portion.

As any calorie counter knows, portion control is a big part of keeping your weight under control. Here's where Season 52's Mini Indulgence Desserts, served in custom-made rectangular glasses a little bigger than shot glasses, come in. Treats like the new Raspberry Chocolate Chip Cannoli and the staple Key Lime Pie, not to mention several chocolate delicacies, complete the meal.

It's great to walk away from a meal like this and not feel overly stuffed. Apparently the word has gotten out, judging from a packed dining room on a Tuesday night.

Dick Clark's passing reminds me I interviewed him

I was saddened to hear that Dick Clark, the iconic TV personality and ever-youthful rock 'n' roll promoter, passed away April 18. His passing reminded me of an old phone interview I did with him back in 1994 about his then-growing restaurant chain, American Bandstand Grill, for Nation's Restaurant News.

A rock 'n' roll fan since age 9, I was thrilled to get the opportunity to talk to him after often watching him host "American Bandstand." That voice on the phone was unmistakably Dick Clark.

The story was about the growth of his small restaurant chain, which still exists at three airports, a travel plaza and in the form of Dick Clark's American Bandstand Theater in Branson, Mo. Those he and I discussed 18 years ago were in Columbus, Ohio, Indianapolis and Overland Park, Kan. A few more opened later.

Why did Clark, who was so successful in  the music and entertainment fields, feel the need to get into the restaurant business? Here's what he told me: "I have always wanted to have a restaurant. It's always been in my blood to want to do this." He oversaw menu development and some other operations details and visited the restaurants whenever he could. The restaurants were tastefully decorated with music memorabilia from his extensive personal collection.

"The name is an American icon that draws them in, but once they get in, we have to please them," Clark said. "We do that with generous portions and reasonable prices. Good food and nice people you get it from will bring people back."

Unfortunately, people did not come back often enough to keep the small chain growing and thriving. I thought the food and service were fine, as was seeing all of the memorabilia. But running restaurants is a hard business, and Clark had a lot of other priorities. Like the "American Bandstand" show, it was fun while it lasted.

New pizzeria in town raises the bar

Pizza joints are everywhere in McHenry County, on the outer northwest edge of the Chicago metro area. Chicago, of course, has a worldwide reputation for deep-dish pizza, but none will be found at the new Marzano's Wood Fire Italian in McHenry.

Located in the former Dunhill's Steakhouse, Marzano's features a full Italian menu, highlighted by certified Neapolian pizzas made in a hand-built Italian oven that heats to 1,000 degrees, explained general manager Petar Milovanovic. Thin-crust pizzas with or without tomato sauce are baked for only 90 seconds directly on the oven floor.

Three of us recently shared the Bianca Nero as a starter, topped with pecorino, fresh mozzarella, porcini mushrooms and white truffle oil. It was a good predecessor to our hearty entrees. We most enjoyed the seared jumbo sea scallops on wild mushroom risotto with more white truffle oil (there can never be too much). We also like the braised beef short ribs, slowly braised over parmesan chive mashed potatoes, topped with demi-glace.

Banana tiramisu proved to be a delicious light dessert. But the Neapolitan Nutella dessert pizza, featuring the chocolatey spread sandwiched into a pizza crust sliced into top and bottom layers, was an even more delightful surprise.

Marzano's well-chosen mostly Italian wine list also is a departure from the norm in these parts. A 2009 Antinori Santa Christina Sangiovese paired nicely with our savory courses.

Nacional 27 aging like a fine tequila

Nacional 27, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises' modern Latin restaurant in Chicago's River North neighborhood, is aging like a fine anejo tequila. The ever-evolving menu that represents influences from 27 Latin countries continues to get more and more interesting. And where else in Chicago can you get free salsa lessons or show off the dance moves you've learned on the weekends?

The supper club atmosphere begs for cocktails to start the evening, and Nacional 27 does not disappoint, delivering many unique house-created libations. Rum lovers are in their element here, but those who like less-sweet drinks will enjoy the El Jardin, a drier combination of jalapeno and red pepper-infused Death's Door gin, cilantro and agave. Surprisingly, the drink is not spicy.

Recommended appetizers must include a ceviche sampling of four variations on this Latin classic and empanadas with housemade chorizo, queso freso and pickled jalapeno crema, followed by an oyster shooter in a spicy bloody maria mix, with or without vodka. My favorite entree was the chimichurri-crusted filet with three potato-chorizo hash and Malbec reduction.

Be sure to save room for a little dessert, especially flan accompanied by an intense tiny chocolate "milkshake" shooter. If you haven't visited Nacional 27 in awhile, it's time to go back.

Personalizing a Bakers Square pie beats baking

When I'm not indulging in eating great food in restaurants, I like to cook at home. Baking, however, is not my forte, so the desserts on my table usually are baked by professionals.

With the holidays upon us, desserts are getting a higher profile than ever. I recently was treated to a tasting of some of the newer pie flavors at a Chicago location of Bakers Square, which reinforced my resolve to leave the baking to the pros. I especially liked the apple cranberry galette and a sweet/savory creation with bacon slices on top expected to be introduced next spring. With a working title of the Salty Hog, this gem also contains salted walnuts on a caramel sauce.

Mary Pint, Bakers Square's charming "Pie Lady" spokesperson, was in town for the tasting, at which she shared tips from her 40 years of pie baking experience on how to personalize pies that are not homemade, such as adding your own made-from-scratch whipped cream or other toppings. That works for me.

Restaurants in Mazatlan demonstrate authenticity

Just back from five days in tropical Mazatlan, on the Pacific Coast of Mexico north of Puerto Vallarta, I have a new appreciation for authentic, regional Mexican cuisine, often hard to find in "Mexican" eateries in my neck of the woods.

Handmade corn tortillas, fish served the same day it's caught and a better variety of chile sauces made the restaurants I sampled stand out, even the casual ones--and most of them were very casual. It's hard to beat the freshness of the day's shrimp or fin fish catch, simply prepared in a shoreline restaurant, such as La Puntilla or Diego's on the Beach. The ceviche and the whole fish (zarondeado), currently corvina, the latter grilled on the beach over a wood and mesquite fire, were outstanding.

Flavorful stews made with a variety of meats satisfied my appetite at several restaurants, including Panama in the Golden Zone and El Meson de los Laureanos in the small village of El Quelite north of Mazatlan. Panama, which began as a cake bakery, also has wonderful cakes and pies, especially the guava pie and the dried plum cake.

It's hard or impossible to duplicate some of these dishes in the Chicago area, but I encourage more local Mexican restaurateurs to try a little harder.