Martial Noguier, chef/partner of the new Bistronomic on Chicago's Gold Coast, told me he is living his dream of having his own restaurant. The name is a combination of the words "bistro" and "gastronomic," he said, and is intended to convey a concept that is more than the typical French bistro.
"I want to create a new bistro in Chicago. Most of them are almost the same. The challenge is to do very good food but not to charge too much, as at the other two places I worked," he said. He was referring to Cafe des Architectes at the nearby Hotel Sofitel and to One Sixtyblue on West Randolph Street.
How can he hold down costs enough to keep his entree prices between the current $17 and $23, I asked? He responded, "I use everything and buy right but still wonderful quality. The plates have less steps than I used to do--more simple for the cooks. I need fewer cooks." He also does his own butchering and pastry and has no sommelier or maitre d'.
"I have people here who travel to Europe who say it's like in France," Noguier says in his charming Parisian accent. "It's a modern bistro."
He plans to add Saturday and Sunday brunch soon and a small sidewalk cafe when the weather permits.
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