Thursday, April 28, 2011

Benny's Chop House updates steakhouse tradition

Chicago has long been known for its many great steakhouses, so when new ones open, are they the same old, same old? Not so in the case of Benny's Chop House at 444 N. Wabash Ave., a little north of Trump Tower.

Benny's, named for majority owner Benny Siddu, has all the requisite steakhouse/chophouse accoutrements but takes them a step further. Every cut on the menu is prime, including the burger, says Mitchell Schmieding, director of operations. Some steaks are dry-aged and others wet-aged. Some are all natural, raised by smaller farmers instead of factory farms, but not enough supply is produced to allow Benny's to buy only naturally raised beef.

Most steakhouses also are known for top-quality seafood, so it's no surprise that Benny's is, too. However, Benny's gets most of its fish "straight from sea to table," says Jonathan Lane, executive chef, formerly from the Four Seasons-Chicago. For instance, he recently ordered halibut directly from his Alaskan supplier as soon as the catch came in and served it the next day.

Appetizers, salads and side dishes are more complex than the shrimp cocktails, sliced Beefsteak tomatoes and giant baked potatoes that are traditional to most steakhouses. Among the standouts are house-smoked salmon, crab and lobster "Louie" tower, prime steak tartare and a grilled romaine salad. The pastry department makes all breads and desserts from scratch, including ice creams.

Guests may accompany their courses with one of 600 wines, including 35 glass pours. Some specialty cocktails change seasonally, and small batch custom cocktails can be designed for private events.

Excellent service also is an integral part of the experience, as overseen by Schmieding, who honed his front-of-the-house skills during the 18 years he spent at Charlie Trotter's. This steakhouse gets my vote as one of the best in the city.

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